Restaurant Operations in Times of War
What does it take to lead, build, and grow in the most difficult environment imaginable? At the European Foodservice Summit, Anna Kozachenko, founder and CEO of the Ukrainian restaurant company Milk Bar provided first-hand insights from her experience running restaurants during wartime.
In a fireside chat with EFSS Advisory Board Member Marta Pogrozewska, Anna shared powerful insights drawn from experiences and challenges that tested resilience, courage, and humanity in ways that life in peace rarely demands.
Anna’s reflections offered practical lessons in leadership and resilience, resonating strongly with the audience, who responded with standing ovations as she left the stage.
Her perspective is particularly significant given that, during the first month of all-out war in Ukraine (February–March 2022), the hospitality sector lost approximately 50% of its businesses and revenue. At the start of the conflict in Kyiv, 80% of staff left the city, leaving only 20% to continue operations.
Here is what we learned:
1. Resilience Built Through Crisis
The foundation and growth of Milk Bar and its associated brands occurred amid ongoing national crises in Ukraine—including revolution, war, financial crises, and the COVID-19 pandemic. Success and resilience were developed by addressing real human needs rather than solely focusing on profits or business metrics.
2. Community-Centric Operations Strengthen Recovery
During acute crises, Milk Bar was among the businesses that continued operations and provided essential support, such as free food for local residents and vulnerable groups, even at a financial loss. This fostered strong community loyalty, enabling rapid post-crisis business recovery; the company regained pre-war turnover within months after resuming normal operations.
“Kyiv was surrounded by the Russian army. We were cut off from all supplies… Our remaining team gathered in a restaurant with a basement kitchen, because it was safer. Everyone who stayed in Kyiv came in—we gave them free food and drinks. At the same time, we cooked hundreds of portions daily for the military and groups in need.”
3. Leadership Adaptability is Crucial in Crisis
In extreme situations, traditional leadership models may not suffice. Employees require clear, decisive guidance rooted in reality rather than vulnerability. Effective crisis leadership is defined by certainty in action and transparent communication, enabling teams to continue functioning under extraordinary stress.
4. People-Centric Approach to Talent Retention
Retaining talent in the hospitality sector amid ongoing war is less about contracts or salaries and more about providing safety, flexibility, and support for mental health. Creating a healthy work environment, clearly defined roles, and flexibility in scheduling are described as essential for workforce sustainability.
“One of our cafés in Kyiv had its windows shattered five times within a couple of weeks because of drone blasts. Each time, our team just picked up, cleaned the glass, tidied up, and reopened within hours. They do it over and over again.”
5. Agility and Scaling in Unpredictable Environments
Expanding across borders—to Poland and Azerbaijan—required flexibility and an openness to improvisation due to lack of prepared systems. The move not only opened new revenue streams but also enabled staff redeployment and greater organizational resilience, offering team members stability during ongoing disruptions in Ukraine.
About Milk Bar
- Operational Scope:
- Founded in 2014 in Kyiv, Ukraine.
- Currently operates three brands: Milk Bar, Good Girl, Dogs and Tails.
- Expanded to three markets: Ukraine, Poland, Azerbaijan.
- Staffing:
- Over 500 employees as of October (due to new opening in Baku, Azerbaijan).
- Started with 35 employees.
- Scale of Service:
- Over 1 million guests served in the last year.
- At least 700 dessert items rotated seasonally.
